How to Plan Your African Safari

I’ve spoken for several years in a row at the Toronto Outdoor & Adventure Show about the world’s best safaris and how to choose the one that’s right for you. It’s a question that comes up frequently with our Craft Travelers: you’re about to spend a considerable amount of time and money on the safari adventure of a lifetime, yet where do you begin when it’s time to plan? So many questions to answer like:

• When is the best time of year to go on safari?

• Which countries or regions should I visit for the best safari experience?

• What kind of safari lodge is best?

• What’s the difference between a national park and private concession?

In order to help better navigate these questions and more, I’ve come up with a cheat sheet below. While this focuses on African safaris only, many of the same principles can be applied when considering safaris elsewhere, like tiger safari in India or jaguar safari in the Pantanal. And of course, you can always email me directly to ask more questions...there’s nothing I love chatting about more than safari. :) 

What is the best time of year to go on safari?

Good news: you can basically plan a safari for any month of the year, depending on which area(s) you choose. Generally speaking, African winter (June - September) is considered peak season for safari as it's the driest time of year, forcing animals to congregate at locations with watering holes thereby making sightings easier. In East Africa, the Great Migration allows for a year-round experience, with herds heading south through Tanzania’s Serengeti from December to March for the calving season, and crossing rivers northbound into Kenya’s Masai Mara from mid July through late October/early November. 

With that said, you absolutely do not need to travel during these dates to have an incredible experience and depending on your interests may find other times of year better. For instance, October in southern Africa is a great month as it's still considered relatively peak viewing season due to dry weather but starting to get hotter, making it a better time of year to visit non-safari regions of South Africa, like Cape Town or the Winelands. I just returned from an amazing safari in April with absolutely perfect weather throughout southern Africa and incredible game sightings. March is an amazing time to witness the zebra migration in Botswana’s Makgadikgadi Salt Pans, part of the greater Kalahari Desert, and stay in an iconic lodge like Jack’s Camp.

There are generally one to two months in each region that are probably best to be avoided but other than that really anytime of year will work. But if you are value-driven, truly consider the green season (generally January, February and March) or, when it comes to Southern Africa, shoulder season in April and May. You won’t be disappointed. Speak to your Craft Travel expert to optimize your selection based on your budget and preferred travel dates. 

Should I go on safari in East Africa or Southern Africa?

Kenya/Tanzania vs. South Africa/Zimbabwe/Zambia/Botswana

This is always a tough question to answer as both regions are so incredible. The important thing here is to remember the following: the continent of Africa shouldn’t be treated as a “once in a lifetime” trip. Imagine trying to squeeze all of Europe or South America into one trip. Chances are, you will visit Africa and immediately feel the need to return to explore more. HOWEVER, most travelers rightfully want to make sure they make their first trip as memorable as possible and start off visiting the places that are best suited to their personal interests.  

So, how to decide where to go on your first safari? Our general rule of thumb is that East Africa is best for people whose main or sole focus for their trip is animal viewing. Kenya and Tanzania have more abundance of animals, particularly during the winter months and the most active periods of the migratory herds. As a result, there is not much else to do while at your lodge in East Africa other than getting into the “game life”, not that in our opinion this is a bad thing. This means the majority of your trip will be spent in a game vehicle (though some lodges will offer walking safaris on foot) looking for animals. For some people this is ideal but for others it can become a bit redundant after four or five days. There are of course exceptions: Chem Chem Lodge in Tanzania gives guests the chance to walk or even run in the bush with their Maasai guide. Lewa Wilderness’ Walking Wild program is one of our favorites for an authentic mobile walking experience in the heart of Kenya’s rhino-rich Laikipia. Finch Hattons in Tsavo National Park offers daily yoga and of course you can always combine your safari with a trek to Mt Kilimanjaro and/or some time on the beach in Zanzibar. 

Southern Africa is much better for a more diverse experience, with South Africa in particular offering so much beyond safari activities. Cape Town and the nearby Winelands are both exceptional destinations for foodies and wine lovers, and are both incredibly beautiful places to be with hiking, biking, etc. Within a two hours drive of both places you have the Whale Coast, known not surprisingly for its whale watching as well as for cage diving with Great White Sharks. You’re also just a quick flight away from Victoria Falls on the Zimbabwe and Zambia border which is really worthwhile (I happen to be a huge fan of Zimbabwe for the ultimate high value safari experience!). And while there may technically be fewer animals around compared to East Africa, you would never leave a safari in southern Africa feeling like you missed out as you'll still be seeing plenty of lions, leopards, cheetahs, elephants, zebra, etc. 

Safari in a tent or luxury lodge?

Many high end lodges throughout Eastern & Southern Africa will have six rooms or less. While this intimacy is ideal for many (especially honeymooners or those on romantic getaways), some travelers prefer a more social atmosphere. Some lodges encourage long table settings where guides and guests dine together and get a chance to know each other more, though the tendency in the increasingly deluxe safari sphere is to create a more private dining experience, whether it be in the main areas or your room’s own private veranda. Some lodges will offer both, and all you need to do is make your preference known to your Craft travel planner before your stay. 

Another thing to consider is whether you’d prefer tented camp or brick-and-mortar lodges. I personally tend to like a mix of the two within an itinerary as I think it provides some variety. Lodges are less common in the Masai Mara and Serengeti when compared with Greater Kruger National Park Area, with varying levels of canvas camps tending to be more dominant. Some “tents” can hardly be considered tents at all and are as luxurious as any lodge, and other mobile tents can be extremely comfortable despite the canvas. These will almost always have hot, running water, with an occasional hot water bucket shower, an operation so seamlessly executed that you would never even know the difference. Of course there are some tents that are by nature extremely simple, particularly mobile or expedition tents, but they can be some of the most special if you’re looking for a truly immersive experience.

What’s the difference between a safari in a national park or private concession or conservancy?

Distinguishing the exact placement of your lodge should be a major consideration in your trip planning. Many people associate Kruger National Park in South Africa or the Masai Mara in Kenya with the ultimate safari experience. While it is true that both destinations are truly exceptional in their wildlife offerings, it is important to remember that they are large national parks and as such can receive a great amount of foot (or rather, vehicular!) traffic. National parks are open to the public and many tour companies will operate actual buses into the parks for day trips. This often leads to zoo-like experiences, with scores of tourists in vehicles surrounding a pride of lions or a herd of elephants. Most of our clients did not travel all this way to see wildlife in this fashion.

Luckily, these high-volume safaris can be avoided by choosing a lodge in a private game reserve. In Southern Africa, these types of reserves are referred to as “concessions” while in Kenya and Tanzania they are generally called “conservancies”. In addition to fewer crowds, another benefit of staying in private concessions or conservancies is more flexibility with your safari experience, with the ability to do things like night drives, off-road driving and walking safaris. These types of activities are not generally offered within the national parks due to increased regulation.

Yet another plus of private concessions and conservancies is their commitment to sustainability and conservation. Concessions are granted by the government and as such stringent environmental standards are enforced in this public-private partnership, encouraging optimal and sustainable environmental conditions.

Rather than stay in Kruger, we suggest our clients check out neighboring concessions such as Sabi Sands, Mala Mala, or Timbavati. In any of these concessions it’s difficult to find more than two or three vehicles at any particular sighting, and the lodges within these concessions hardly ever allow more than six guests per vehicle. Within Kruger itself are a handful of excellent concessions as well, such as Nwanetsi Private Concession, home to two of South Africa’s most deluxe and exclusive safari lodges, Singita Lebombo and Singita Sweni. Imbali Private Concession is another great option as it boasts the excellent yet more affordable Hamilton’s Tented Camp. There are also lesser-known reserves throughout South Africa such as Welgevonden, just a couple of hours drive from Johannesburg, or Kwandwe and Shamwari in the Eastern Cape along South Africa’s famed Garden Route. Both of these private reserves offer all of the Big Five with way fewer crowds and unique experiences you can go home and boast about. 

In Botswana, rather than fight crowds in Chobe National Park, you can head to Linyanti Concession, Chobe’s neighbor on its northeastern tip, where you can stay in incredible lodges like Linyanti Bush Camp or the newly opened Linyanti Expeditions, perfect for adventurous clients looking for walking safaris and nights under the stars. Further south, the famed Okavango Delta offers the Khwai Concession with incredible lodges like Khwai Bush Camp or Tuludi Camp, scheduled to open in July 2019. Okavango Delta is also home to the Moremi Game Reserve, with two of Botswana’s top properties, Mombo Camp and Vumbura Plains. 

In East Africa, it’s worth noting that there are excellent options within the national parks that are not within private conservancies. This is due to the fact that many of these properties can only be reached by charter flight, thereby eliminating the possibility of bus tours coming in from Nairobi or other large cities. Lodges within East African conservancies tend to be the most exclusive in the market, like Mahali Mzuri, Richard Branson’s property in the Olare Motorogi Conservancy Another favorite in Olare Motorogi is Mara Plains, and for the utmost exclusivity, travelers can consider Cottar’s in the fully private Olderkesi Conservancy. Singita Grumeti Reserve bordering Seregenti National Park is a truly exceptional option with only five lodges spread throughout nearly 200,000 hectares of private territory.

What kind of safari can I do besides game drives?

Perhaps you’ve already done Big Five safaris in the better known parks and concessions and are looking to up your safari game. Looking for some independence on your adventure? Consider a self-drive safari through Namibia’s breathtaking landscapes. Explore Sossusvlei Desert and the Skeleton Coast with your very own 4x4 vehicle. Take your time driving between destinations, knowing that upon arrival to lodges like Little Kulala or Shipwreck Lodge you’ll be enjoying the ultimate experience in luxury adventure. (If you want to get a taste for my own personal Namibia self-drive adventure, check out the video here!).

Another favorite Craft journey is gorilla treks in Rwanda and/or Uganda. Both countries offer unprecedented access to these incredible primates, along with so much more. In Rwanda, you can track families of gorillas at renowned Bisate Lodge in Volcanoes National Park and then head to Magashi Camp in Akagera National Park for one of the most scenic savannahs in East Africa, complete with open plains, mountains, swamps and lakes. Neighboring Uganda boasts not only gorillas in the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest (and at a significantly lower permit fee than in Rwanda) but also chimpanzees in Kibale Forest and impressive waterfalls at Murchison Falls.

We also love up and coming safari destinations like Malawi, which can be easily combined with neighboring Zambia and Zimbabwe. 

Hope this helps! And again, don’t be shy to reach out to me or any member of the Craft Travel team directly for more tips.