The Ultimate Kenya Exclusive Use Safari Itinerary: Insight from Julia’s Unforgettable Trip
If you follow us on Instagram, you may have seen my posts describing just how impactful I found each of the three exclusive-use safari lodges (plus one private home in Nairobi) that we visited in Kenya to be. Yes, having your own private safari villa throughout does generally enhance the experience by design, and I’ll go into how and why later. But it wasn’t only exclusivity and luxury that made this trip what it was.
“Impactful” isn’t a word I use lightly. Nearly all of the travel I do is enjoyable, informative and fascinating. And inevitably most trips will have some effect, or “impact”, on the way you see that particular destination. But impactful in the transformational sense… that is few and far between.
In Swahili, the word safari translates to journey. It’s something I thought a lot about during this last trip to Kenya for several reasons. I must say that I find it fascinating that a word from an East African language has ascended vernacular across all seven continents. It's an inspiring testament to the power of cultural exchange. But more relevant to this conversation, how remarkable is it that the word "safari" has become wholly synonymous with wildlife when the meaning is in fact so much more nuanced? I am just as guilty as the rest of the world of falsely equating the two. But my most recent Kenyan safari has encouraged me to consider the original meaning of the word.
Don’t get me wrong: there is nothing quite like spotting majestic elephants, giraffes or big cats on the savanna as the blazing African sun rises or sets. It’s in these moments that travelers - myself included - first develop lifelong addiction to the bush. And for the most part, even literally hundreds of game drives later, it never gets old. But the more time I spend in the bush, the more I am drawn to… less. Less time in the vehicle, fewer stops on an itinerary, minimal programming. I want to maximize my time at the camps, connect with the team, move my body and stretch my legs. Something more profound than being simply a spectator. I want a two-way street with the wild, to be a part of it in a deeper way. I want a journey, and I want to slow it down.
This is particularly the case in East Africa, and even more so in Kenya, where local culture is so integrally sewn into the fabric of safari. To focus strictly on the wildlife, however prolific it may be, would be like reading a book but skipping the beginning and end.
I think this is why this last trip resonated so much with me: each stop of our safari was part of a journey of immersion. Each place was completely unique, yet all were highly complementary.
The itinerary (you can find it here) began with a stay at Manzili House, a gorgeous home bordering Nairobi’s leafy Karen neighborhood impeccably designed and decorated by its owner, Vanessa. While Manzili does offer bookings on a per-room basis, I would recommend using it only on an exclusive basis as it’s incredibly intimate; it truly feels like a home. There are four bedrooms in the main house, and then a two-bedroom villa directly across the charming pool, meaning Manzili is ideal for 12 adults or easily up to 20 for a family group traveling with children. Vanessa can organize the most amazing experiences for guests, such as exclusive gallery visits or live music at the house.
We then flew via private charter to the Laikipia region. The Lewa Conservancy has long been one of our favorite places in Northern Kenya, boasting fantastic wildlife and a wide array of activities beyond your standard game drive. Lewa Wilderness’ newest creation, Private Wilderness, opened in July 2024 and is the perfect base for a group of up to 10 adults or a mix of 15 adults and children.
Neither describing Private Wilderness’ understated elegance nor listing off the countless activities you can do at Lewa (though to give you an idea: walking safari, horseback riding, camel riding, fly camping, biplane safari, antipoaching activities and community outreach, to name a few) can paint the full picture. It’s only while there, immersed in each experience, that you start to understand how you aren’t really there to spot the Big Five wildlife; you’re there to live among them. The excursions aren’t contrived to fill time between game drives; what happens outside the vehicle is the main attraction.
We then headed to Kalepo Camp, venturing even further north into the Matthews Range, also known as Samburuland. The Samburu are one of Kenya’s most fascinating tribes, and the experience Kalepo is simply indescribable.
With three double tents, a family tent with two units and guide tents that are in some ways just as nice as the primary ones, Kalepo can easily accommodate 10-12 adults, or a family of 15-16 with children. It’s a fantastic place for families as kids can roam free on the sprawling grounds without concern for predators.
We saw one elephant in passing, and barely anyone paid attention to it. More fascinating to us as far as wildlife was concerned was the birth of a baby cow and the rupturing of her mom’s amniotic sac that we witnessed in the river banks. Besides that moment, we were otherwise fully fixated on what can only be described as the most authentic cultural immersion I’ve ever encountered.
“Authentic” is a word thrown around rather carelessly in our industry these days, but it’s fair to say that what occurs at Kalepo sets a standard unlikely to be surpassed. To strike a harmonious balance between high-touch hospitality and unfiltered immersion is a near-impossible task. The two concepts are generally oxymoronic by definition. Curation means controlling for variables, methodically working out all kinks or potential discomforts. Yes, Kalepo is a fabulous exclusive-use luxury safari camp with our favorite cuisine of our trip and quite possibly the world’s most epic helicopter adventure (to reveal more would be a great disservice to future travelers). But somehow it’s the unsanitized reality of the Samburu people that made our stay there the most exclusive experience of many of our lives.
The partnership between the Samburu tribe and Kalepo’s rockstar owners, Storm and Rob Mason, is palpably magical. And the passion these lifelong safari insiders exude is contagious. Guests are not there to receive a performance. They are there to engage with the Samburu as human beings, as children and parents, as friends. Rob made an observation that is now etched in my mind: thankfully we are now at a place with conservation awareness where we’re unlikely to see the most endangered of wildlife go extinct on our watch. But what about cultures? We are on the verge of witnessing a mass extinction of the world’s most traditional cultures. What does that mean for humanity? What is our responsibility in preserving them? And if only selfishly, how can we experience them firsthand before it’s too late? I for one do not want to live in a world where everything looks and feels the same. Kalepo is a reminder as to why.
Our final stop was the brand new Wild Hill, brought to us by the iconic founders of House in the Wild, Lippa and Tarquin Wood. House in the Wild has always been one of our absolute favorite places to send families in the Maasai Mara, because Lippa and Tarquin just “get” it. With three children of their own, all of whom have been raised in the bush, the Woods understand what is needed to make a family-friendly safari experience excel for both parent and child. And with Wild Hill, they have truly outdone themselves.
Wild Hill has five stunning safari suites, and just like both Private Wilderness and Kalepo, can easily hold 10-12 adults, or 15-16 with children. I loved our stay at Wild Hill for many reasons, but two things stand out most.
The first would be how wholly unpretentious Wild Hill is, despite being arguably the most luxurious lodge in all of Kenya. Think Angama Mara, but superior on virtually level and far more intimate. This is a villa that has been built with the intention of being enjoyed, from the incredible spa to the yoga deck, pickleball courts, game room and indoor cinema. Years ago this type of thing might have rubbed me the wrong way, but both as a parent and just as someone who has developed a deep appreciation for anything that will deliver comfort and relaxation, I am now fully here for it. Wild Hill is managed by Dave and Sol, the loveliest South African couple who have hosted guests at some of the world’s most iconic properties and radiate magnetic yet calming energy as soon as you meet them. Thanks to them, along with the influence of Lippa and Tarquin, everything is done in the most laidback, natural and fun way. This isn’t meant to be a replacement for being in the “wild”; it’s meant to be a supplement.
Which leads me to the second reason I loved Wild Hill so much: the Woods were not afraid to redefine the traditional Mara experience. Yes, as a guest of Wild Hill you have private guides and vehicles to take you as many game drives as you’d like where you’ll inevitably encounter all of the Big Five. But the highlights for me? Taking advantage of unlimited spa treatments (especially Sol’s life-changing facial), sound bath meditations with both Sol and Dave, braving a cold plunge for the first time, beading bracelets with women from the local community and speed hiking up the lodge’s namesake hill through proper bush with three local guides in a race against our friends riding in the game vehicle. Much to everyone’s surprise, we actually won!
The beauty of safari villas is that you and your loved ones become the masters of your ship in a way that isn’t always possible as guests in a traditional camp. Exclusive use means you set the schedule and the menu, you connect with staff more meaningfully... you aren’t just guests, but rather residents of your very own proper home. Yet in order for the magic to occur, the home must have a heart. Otherwise you’ll find yourself in what feels like an isolated, sterile structure, which is unfortunately something that I have in fact before.
Wild Hill relies on neither luxury nor wildlife, though it has both in spades. The understanding about what makes an experience unforgettable and what draws people and families together is something that no amount of investment can generate. It comes from mindfulness and heart, and with Wild Hill as a final stop on our epic journey, my heart was definitely full.
Manzili House, Lewa, Kalepo and Wild Hill are all owner-owned and operated. All are proud Kenyans, minus Kalepo’s honorary Kenyans Rob and Storm who’ve lived in East Africa for decades and speak impeccable Swahili. While each property was utterly unique, there were many common denominators we found amongst the pioneers whose passions had compelled them to build these unforgettable places. Perhaps the most recurring theme was the unbridled love of Kenya each shared. Each owner had in his or her own way chosen Kenya, and was determined to share their passion with the rest of the world. In retrospect, it’s a fairly remarkable commonality to possess, something I think is highly correlated to the fact that each has gone the exclusive use route, which is a far more intimate, hands-on approach to hosting guests. These owners want to connect with guests on a far deeper level than the typical lodge owner, who very well may live on another continent. Of course, they are emotionally intelligent enough to read the room and step back from guests who prefer to keep the experience all about their family or fellow group of travelers. But for those who appreciate this type of genuine connection with highly accomplished and wildly fascinating people, these four properties will deliver a sense of being part of something bigger that money alone simply cannot buy.
There is a quote we often include in our safari proposals by Richard Mullin: “I envy the man who has not yet been to Africa, for he has so much to look forward to.” This speaks to many elements of just how transformative travel to the continent can be, but for me it highlights one important theme that I often find myself stressing to clients: Africa is not a once in a lifetime destination. Of course we all have finite time (and budget, for most of us), and therefore must allocate our resources accordingly. But very few discerning travelers would say that they were planning on just one trip to Europe ever. There is an understanding of how vast and diverse it is, and how much you’d be missing out on by skipping large parts of it. Yes, we are in the business of planning “once in a lifetime” journeys to Africa. But each experience will in fact be once in a lifetime; it doesn’t mean a visit to the continent should be. This was my sixth trip to Kenya, and hands-down the best one ever. Imagine if I’d ruled it out because of that.
This speaks to a larger theme that I think about often these days: whether here in Africa or elsewhere, slower, more intentional travel is what I now crave. Returning to the places I love to establish a deeper understanding and connection. Escaping crowds, embracing an evolved definition of destination “exclusivity”. And for the clients who will let me, it’s what I most want to share with you as we begin this exciting new year and consider your future travel. Let’s put you on a proper safari, wherever in the world that may be. ☺️
Safari Njema!
Julia
