Secrets of Luxury Travel in Vietnam & Cambodia
Five Luxury Travel Takeaways from My Recent Trip to Vietnam & Cambodia in 2024
Do you ever feel a strong connection to a place you’ve visited, but then after years of not having been back struggle to articulate what it was exactly that drew you so much to it?
This was the case for me personally with Vietnam. When people would ask about some of my favorite destinations, Vietnam would always come to mind. But after years I recently returned from Vietnam and Cambodia and the experience, it’s all become crystal clear for me again.The pandemic had its most prolonged impact in Asia, and as a result tourism in both Vietnam and Cambodia are still in many ways recovering. But having now seemingly reached the zenith of the two-year European travel boom, the demand for less trafficked destinations is palpable. All the more reason why the time to travel to Southeast Asia is sooner rather than later.
Don’t get me wrong: the crowds are already starting to come back. But it’s still nothing like pre-COVID levels and as I discussed on a recent Instagram post, traveling in the off-season provides the immeasurable luxury of zero crowds. Regardless of the season, you can also accomplish this by sailing on the sensational Aqua Mekong where I not only had the best food of my entire three-week trip, but also enjoyed cycling in villages without a single other tourist.
Rather than summarize my full itinerary (which can be viewed here), I thought it would be more interesting to focus on the key takeaways I came away with from this highly memorable trip.
Don’t skip on the ultimate luxury river cruise between Cambodia and Vietnam
A luxury river cruise really is the greatest way to combine Vietnam and Cambodia. The Aqua Mekong is one of several luxury river cruises that Aqua Expeditions operates worldwide. We have always been major proponents of their Galapagos, Amazon and Indonesia sailings for our clients (with an exciting new departure launching in Seychelles and Zanzibar next year), I had never personally been. It ended up being a very last minute addition to my trip, but after the fact something that I truly loved and couldn’t have imagined not including, for a variety of reasons.
The most obvious one is that the product is exceptional. Over the course of three weeks of delicious (and nonstop) eating, the food aboard the Aqua Mekong consistently proved to be the best. The spa was equally exceptional, far more impressive than most hotels. The staterooms are remarkably well-appointed and even in the bathroom you quickly forget you’re not on land. With a max occupancy of 40 guests, the ship feels intimate and can make even the most reluctant cruiser like myself feel in her element.
The second notable reason is that for those interested in exploring the Mekong Delta, the Aqua provides one of the most authentic and immersive ways of doing so. The Aqua Mekong visits islands and villages that remain unvisited by any other tourists. Each morning and afternoon, guests can choose between two to three activities, and a cycling option is almost always available. I loved being able to get in some movement while seeing a side of the Delta that would be nearly impossible to experience from land. Day tours of the Delta done from Saigon cannot reach the same areas, and so much time is spent in transit.
The final reason is that it gave me a reason to spend time in Phnom Penh, a destination I would have otherwise passed on. While it lacks the serene charm of Siem Reap, Cambodia’s capital was the stage for the horrific atrocities of the country’s civil war. Visiting the city’s Genocide Museum provides a far more nuanced and sombering perspective of Cambodia’s recent history, and without that I feel I’d be missing a very big piece of the puzzle when trying to understand the full picture (I did not make it to the killing fields outside the city, but imagine that would deliver an equally significant impact).
On a more optimistic note, the fairly new Rosewood Phnom Penh blew me away and I can’t think of a better place to stay while delving into the horrific atrocities committed nearby, less than 50 years ago. I’m typically apathetic toward modern city hotels, but the Rosewood has created something remarkably special that provides the thoughtful comfort needed to complement the experiences of Phnom Penh. Beginning a trip here or spending a few nights in between a fast-paced itinerary to slow things down a bit (as I did) is something I’d recommend for anyone considering a trip to the region. I’m already plotting a return to the Rosewood Phnom Penh for a few nights before continuing onward to Shinta Mani.
My three-night itinerary on the Aqua Mekong from Phnom Penh to Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) was the shortest available, with longer voyages of four and seven nights also available. For me, three nights felt perfect, though the four night itineraries do provide more opportunity to explore the Delta within Cambodia. Personally, four nights would be my limit as I’m simply not meant to be contained for such a long period of time. But I mean it when I say that I would strongly recommend the Aqua Mekong for virtually any of our clients, and that if someone like me who cannot stay still loves three nights on this river cruise, you almost certainly will too.
Traveling in low season summer months has considerable benefits
I already discussed this matter a bit on Instagram last month, but feel it’s something that merits additional consideration. While the crowds will almost undoubtedly continue to rise in the post-pandemic era, it was remarkable to compare the experience I had this summer in Vietnam and Cambodia versus Europe. We had several temples in the Angkor Wat complex all to ourselves, just nine passengers on our luxury river cruise and fully comfortable-sized crowds in even the most touristic blocks of Hoi An, to name a few examples.
The advent of fewer people is in this case complemented by reduced rates for the top luxury brands throughout both countries, including the Four Seasons Nam Hai, which is ironically mostly rain-free from May through August and boasts perfect hot weather from which guests can enjoy its stunning white sand beaches.
Hoi An and Central Vietnam are of course the outliers this time of year, with most of Vietnam and Cambodia enduring the humid rainy season from May through October. But we didn’t find it to be particularly rainy at any point of our trip, and the only real downpour we experienced was when we were already inside of Bayon Temple. Because we’d entered just as it had started to rain, no one else was there and we enjoyed the most epic experience of being completely alone in this iconic monument.
For those who really can’t endure the excess heat, I think late November and early December would be a great time to visit. Crowds will be significantly larger by that time, but temperatures will have dropped significantly, particularly in Northern Vietnam, where it can actually get quite chilly. It would be a beautiful time of year to explore more adventurous areas like Ninh Binh and Mai Chau. What you’ll want to keep in mind come January and February are the Chinese New Year holidays, which bring the largest number of tourists to the region.
Vietnam and Cambodia are neighbors, but far from one and the same… so allocate your time in each destination accordingly
It’s very common to discuss Vietnam and Cambodia as an almost single destination, at least from a trip planning perspective. More often than not, the two countries are “lumped” together in an itinerary that can often be as short as ten days. In thinking this way we are doing a great disservice to both Vietnam and Cambodia, and this recent trip served as a reminder of just how vastly different the two countries are. Cambodia is culturally and linguistically much more aligned with Thailand and India, while Vietnam’s history, heritage and language are both inextricably linked with that of China’s. There are of course countless other significant variances, but to me it is this lens that provides the most telling distinction. And this means that, with the exception of the Mekong Delta region shared by both countries, there is actually very little overlap between the experiences of Vietnam and Cambodia.
But they are extremely complementary, hence why it makes total sense to combine the two when you’ve traveled such a long distance. The question then is how to appropriately allocate time between both countries. Of course, in a perfect world, clients would have unlimited time (and budget!) to spend in each destination they visited. So if I were to make a single recommendation in practical terms, it would be that when including Cambodia, ensure sufficient time is devoted to Siem Reap. To spend less than three nights in Siem Reap would mean either traveling at such a frenetic pace that it’s hard to imagine enjoying it - or equally disappointing - missing out on so much that it has to offer. And the tranquility in Siem Reap lends itself to a slower pace: I could’ve stayed for a week at Phum Baitang, relaxing alongside the fragrant rice paddies and taking daily advantage of their highly innovative spa.
Many travelers will include a few nights in Siem Reap as an extension of Vietnam, but for those looking for a deeper exploration, I would suggest considering Cambodia as either a standalone destination or a place to spend at least seven to ten nights, if not more. I’ve already described why I see Phnom Penh as essential, and for those who love African safaris, Shinta Mani Wild provides a perfect complementary experience. Cambodian beach destinations like Song Saa or Six Senses Krabey Island round out a fully balanced itinerary, all within one country.
Understanding that both time and budget are typically finite, Hanoi can be meaningfully explored with three nights (especially if you stay at the Capella Hanoi and take advantage of all of their fabulous experiences included in the nightly rate), and Saigon could probably be done in two, particularly if you’ve left the Delta experience for the Mekong River cruise.
I personally would forgo a highly overtouristed Ha Long Bay, though if you feel it’s a sight that can’t be missed a single-night cruise should be more than sufficient. However, for those already in Northern Vietnam looking for epic scenery and more adventurous activities, especially during the drier months, I’d eagerly allocate an additional 2-3 nights for Ninh Binh and/or Mai Chau. And where I would nearly always advocate to devote more time is in Central Vietnam.
Central Vietnam is not to be missed
I won’t go into too much detail as it would spoil the surprise, but one of the absolute most memorable experiences of our trip occurred in Hue, the Imperial Capital of Vietnam. For anyone interested in history, Hue is a must-visit while in Vietnam: while there I fell in love with anHill, a new boutique hotel where various immersive activities have been curated to help guests better understand the rich cultural and historical fabric of the region.
If you are like me and want to discover Vietnam in a highly active and fully hands-on way, my opinion is that both Hue and Hoi An offer the country’s most compelling means of doing so. Biking, Vespas, cooking classes, cocktail tours steeped in history, dress making, creative arts… Central Vietnam is designed to be explored through immersion.
Just a couple hours’ scenic and easy drive from Hue is the famed city of Hoi An. As I’ve mentioned to virtually anyone who will listen, the Four Seasons Nam Hai neighboring Hoi An was an absolute trip highlight for me and, along with the Rosewood Phnom Penh, certainly the biggest surprise from a hospitality standpoint. Unlike many travel advisors, I am not generally a major proponent of the Four Seasons brand. While most Four Seasons properties will always deliver a reliable high-end experience to our clients, I will only typically suggest it in the event that their property offers something truly exceptional experientially-speaking that you’d otherwise miss out on by staying elsewhere.
The Nam Hai fits the bill, in that no hotel in Hoi An proper can even remotely compete with the ultra high-touch yet authentic vibe of the Four Seasons where the destination itself meaningfully yet elegantly comes alive for guests. Four Seasons Nam Hai is somehow able to provide the ultimate luxury beach resort experience with remarkably competitive value, all while being just a 15 minute car ride from the heart of Hoi An. To me, it’s an absolute no-brainer. I really couldn’t believe how much I enjoyed the property and how well it works for most Vietnam itineraries.
For those looking strictly for beach and something that perhaps feels more remote and exotic, there are additional exceptional options in Central Vietnam. Further to the south, Six Senses Ninh Van Bay is a favorite amongst Vietnam insiders, boasting a remote location with stunning beach reminiscent of the Seychelles, along with a plethora of more adventurous activities like hiking and water sports. Amanoi will excite any Aman junkie and pairs well with its sister property Amansara in Siem Reap (more on that below). And similar to Hoi An, both of these locations offer fairly reliable beach weather year-round.
Luxury is on the rise… mostly
Speaking of luxury, the trend in Vietnam -and perhaps even more so in Cambodia- is all moving upward, with major developments over the past five years and even more in store for the immediate future. Recent hotel openings like the Capella Hanoi and Rosewood Phnom Penh are a testament to high-touch perfection, and with delightful new renovations at Amansara coupled with the hotly anticipated reopening of the Belmond D’Ankor in early 2025, it’s going to be a very exciting year ahead for Siem Reap.
The number of exceptional hotel options in Siem Reap is fairly astounding: even the Raffles, which I had anticipated to feel a bit tired, felt regal and incredibly comfortable. Design-wise, the nearby Shinta Mani Bensley Collection Pool Villas have a wow factor meant to break the Instagram algorithm. My personal favorites were Phum Baitang and Amansara: while very different in terms of architecture and location, both have a much more experiential emphasis and really lean into Cambodian culture. These are two hotels that you can tell were intentionally created not just for Siem Reap but because of Siem Reap and couldn’t be replicated elsewhere.
Interestingly enough, the city with the least impressive luxury hospitality is the region’s most significant metropolis: Saigon. The Park Hyatt Saigon is the city’s most iconic hotel, showcasing classic French colonial architecture and top-notch service. I really enjoyed our time there but when compared to the aforementioned properties, the rooms might be considered a bit dated. A more contemporary and luxurious option is available with The Reverie Saigon, but I think most of our clients would find it a bit over the top and lacking in personality and place, as the style has very little connection to anything one might consider Vietnamese.
On my next trip to Vietnam, my focus will be exploring the top beach resorts, including the aforementioned Amanoi and Ninh Van Bay, along with Six Senses’ more southern Vietnamese island property Con Dao and, from the owners of Phum Baitang, Zannier Bãi San Hô. All remain very much off the beaten path, and even as tourism inevitably comes to exceed pre-pandemic levels in Vietnam, these places should remain relatively unchartered.
Final thoughts
Until then however, I will enjoy my renewed memories of this truly exceptional part of the world. If you are interested in discussing how Vietnam and Cambodia may fit into your next adventure, it would be an absolute pleasure to chat with you.
