My impressions of Botswana, as a seasoned safari traveler…
I had the opportunity to travel to Botswana from December 4-12 2023 with a group of other travel professionals. It was such an incredible experience getting to see Botswana for the second time, but this time from the other side of the travel industry. I spent time at 4 lodges that were part of the Machaba Safari brand, each with their own unique offerings and experiences.
We started at Ngoma Lodge in Chobe National Park, where we went on game drives as well as a boat cruise on the Chobe River. The views from the riverside, as well as watching thousands of elephants frolic and play in the water was something I won’t forget, it was so special. The expansive views from the lodge were also incredible, with each villa room overlooking the Chobe Forest Reserve and the watering hole below. Chobe is a very water-focussed location, as well as a National Park. I highly recommend spending a half day or full day on a boat cruise as it adds a different perspective to the land and wildlife in the area. Ngoma Lodge was only 7 minutes outside of the park gates giving it a big advantage over other lodges. The park is open from 6am to 7pm so not having to drive a long distance to/from the park was a big plus to the overall experience. Chobe is not normally a destination I would enthusiastically sell due to over tourism with day visitors from Victoria Falls, but the location of Ngoma allows for incredible wildlife viewing, particularly of elephants, and I was pleasantly surprised at the lack of other vehicles we saw while we were in the park.
Our next stop took us to the Okavango Delta, to our first of 3 camps in one of my favorite safari locations. I had traveled to the Delta in 2018, so having an idea of what I was in for was exciting, however each camp offered such different experiences it was like I was going for the first time.
The Delta is a complicated place, and it has taken me a while to fully understand how it works. The dry months in the Delta (in terms of rain are from May to October) are the wet months (in terms of flood) and the rainy months ( November to April) are actually the driest on the ground. It is important to know that most of the water that floods into the Okavango Delta does not fall in the Delta directly as rain, but comes from the rising water in the highlands of Angola, some 500km away. This causes the Okavango River to swell, pushing the water down into the Okavango Delta creating the famous alluvial fan shape we see on maps.
Machaba Camp was our first stop, where we spent one night enjoying the simpler things about being on safari. This rustic yet charming safari camp proved that sometimes the simple things in life are all we need. We were welcomed by the wonderful staff who had drinks awaiting our arrival, and smiles on their faces. The wildlife was evident even from my first few minutes, as I was delayed getting to my tent due to an elephant finishing his lunch right beside it. Our guide, BD, was one of my favorites and I quickly realized why he is the most requested guide by repeat guests. He was so knowledgeable in his tracking skills and even went so far as to show us how he was tracking the animals and the strategies he used to find the lions, leopards, elephants and more. I really felt like I learned so much from him. We also had a lot of great laughs and the sundowner and bush brunch that the staff surprised us with was such an amazing touch. One of my favorite safari moments to date was waking up in the middle of the night, to the low roars of some lions in the distance. I felt 100% safe in my tent, and it was such a wild experience that I won’t forget. I really loved this camp, it is incredible value and a comfortable place to start any safari in the Delta.
After Machaba we flew on a light aircraft with Mack Air to Gomoti Plains, another tented camp near the Gomoti River. This camp was a more elevated version of Machaba, with welcoming staff, and lovely tents but the real MVP was our guide Mott. We were told the wildlife at Gomoti was very strong, and Mott went over and beyond to prove that to us. His enthusiasm for the animals, and knowledge of how to find what we wanted to see was unparalleled. Hands down Mott was one of the best guides I have ever had, and I have been fortunate to go on many safari’s, many of which were considered some of the top luxury camps and lodges in Africa. We saw a pride of 10 lions including cubs, a mother leopard with a cub, big male lions, lions on a hunt, big herds of buffalo, all the plains game and more. If wildlife is your focus this is a great camp for you! A big takeaway from this camp was that just because the camp may not be as full-on luxury as some others, does not mean your safari experience will suffer. It is important for the camps to invest in their guides as they really do play a huge part in creating your memories.
Our final stop in the Delta was Kiri Camp, the newest addition to the Machaba Safari portfolio. This camp was stunning from top to bottom. The natural wood used to make the vast deck, the modern décor, the incredible food, and the best massage I’ve ever had, made this lodge an amazing one to finish on. The wildlife viewing at this camp was interesting. We traveled in the dry shoulder season, just as the heavy rains were starting to come. The Delta was dry in general, and this particular concession was having an extra dry season. The wildlife was all there we just had to drive a bit farther to see it as the animals headed to where they could get the water. During the flood season, this camp would have an entirely different wildlife experience, as it was built to be right on the water. When the floods come in, the animals come closer to the camp, and the islands that are created by the floods create higher density animal areas. Guests can also Mokoro right from the front of the camp if the flood comes high enough which is a unique experience in the Delta. This is a camp that I would recommend visiting during the wetter season for the full Delta experience.
The biggest take away from this trip was that it is very important to understand the locations of the camps in the Delta, in order to pick the appropriate camps for each individual client. Each client will have different preferences, and the Delta can be complicated to navigate without some professional insight. Knowing which camps are fully water based, seasonally water based, or not at all is a huge piece of the puzzle when creating the perfect itinerary in Botswana. This is why it is so important to use a travel designer who is familiar with the flood system, and can determine which camps are appropriate during each season as well as taking into account what clients want to do while on safari. The floods change so much about the wildlife disbursement, as well as what activities are available, that it can really make or break a safari experience. Botswana is often a pricier option than some of the other popular safari destinations, and the price tag is not necessarily tied to the luxury of the camps, but the locations and the prized concessions the camps are on. Botswana is all about location location location, and I can guarantee you will have a better safari experience at a simpler camp with an amazing location, than the fanciest camp in an undesirable spot.
Botswana really has something for everyone. It is ideal for avid safari lovers who want to see an array of exciting wildlife (hi, it’s me!). It’s also perfect for adventure seekers, going beyond jeep game drives to include boat experiences, night safaris, walking safaris and even horseback safaris. Botswana is a haven for birdlife so if birding is your thing, this is where you want to go with over 500 bird species recorded so far. Botswana offers accommodations for every kind of traveler. From simple tents, to over the top luxury, one thing you can count on no matter the level of accommodation is impeccable service, stunning scenery and amazing people. Honeymooners find Botswana especially unique. I can’t think of something more romantic than a mokoro (traditional canoe) ride as the sun rises, or a private dinner under the starry skies, in room spa treatments and breathtaking landscapes. Feel like you are a million miles from everything but with everything you could want at your fingertips.
Botswana has really captured my heart (for the second time), and I know it will as well for everyone who gets to experience its splendor. I hope you will take my word for it and see for yourself. Until next time Bots….
